A rambler's paradise

The very compactness of the National Park makes it hard to absorb all the detail at a casual glance and therefore bids us to linger. The best way to do this is on foot. Then a true sense of what Wales is - its land, its people, its past - will dawn. The imprint of Man is never far: unlike their Scottish counterparts, the wilder parts of Wales are often easy to access, and will excite without putting one in peril. This has to be the best of both worlds. This page describes a long-distance circular walk which introduces less well-known parts such as the Migneint and the Rhinogs as well as offering more unusual aproaches to old favourites.

Twelve areas were selected in such a way that walkers can explore each in the course of an average day. A series of twelve linear walks thus offer themselves to the keen reader. At the end of each chapter, I point out the nearest centres of civilisation where accommodation and food may be found. Generally, the use of two cars - one at each end - is the easiest approach to transport. For the very keen reader, these twelve walks futhermore link up with each other, thereby offering a long-distance trail through the whole of the Snowdonia National Park. This whole walk loops on itself, and can therefore be started at any point; I suggest however starting on the shores of Llyn Ogwen. The whole route is walked within two weeks, although longer will be needed for a thorough exploration. The reader might like to complete just one half and give him himself the time to savour his journey.

In all cases, an Ordnance Survey map, the ability to read it and make good use of a compass are expected.

Walk 1

From the shores of Llyn Ogwen, the walk starts by climbing the Glyders. For this there are several approaches possible. There are a few classic scrambles in Snowdonia, and the north ridge of Tryfan followed by Bristly Ridge rates as one of the finest. It is also popular and a less frequented route can be found by visiting the hanging valleys above Cwn Ffrancon and then making up to Foel Goch or Mynydd Perfedd. From there, the ridge can be followed to Y Garn, then down to Llyn y Cwn and back up to Glyder fawr. Although this route is less challenging, it has the merit of splendid views, isolation and more wildlife. Other alternatives are Cribin, Senior's ridge or the Devil's kitchen (via Llyn Idwal) - this last route being the least interesting. Descend to Pen-y-Pass by the southern arm of Glyder fawr: a lack of track is compensated for by the superb views of Crib Goch, as seen left. Llyn Cwmffynon is well worth the minor detour.

Accommodation: YHA Idwal Cottage and YHA Pen-y-Pass; food: Llanberis.

Walk 2

The easiest route involves walking the anodine PYG track. It is far better to walk towards Dinas Mot and take the north ridge of Crib Goch to join the main ridge over the pinnacles. This route avoids many of the crowds who go up the east ridge (also a possibility); it is easier, more scenic and allows to linger around remote Glaslyn. Once you have joined the main summit of Crib Goch, make for Carnedd Ugain then Snowdon itself. Two routes of descent to the Snowdon Ranger are possible: the Snowdon Ranger footpath, or a detour via Yr Aran. This latter is far more scenic and completes the day's ridge walking.

Accommodation: YHA Snowdon Ranger; food: Rhyd Ddu or Beddgelert.

Walk 3

Contour around the shores of Llyn Cwellyn, then climb onto the ridge that leads towards Mynydd Mawr. Descend to Llyn Dywarchen, admiring the views of Snowdon. Climb Y Garn onto the Nantlle ridge, which is to be followed for 2 miles. Turn south and over Y Lefn, Moel Yr Ogof and Moel Hebog. Old quarries and tramlines abound. Moel Yr Ogof has its famous cave plus a less well known asbestos mine, both on the eastern flank. Descend to Beddgelert or Pont Aberglaslyn. If you are staying in Beddgelert and intend to walk the next section, a pleasant walk along the Glaslyn river will start the next day. Alternatively, the descent to Pont Aberglaslyn from Moel Hebog gives excellent views of Cnicht and the Moelwyns. It goes through land that has been farmed for millenia as evidenced by the traces of round houses. A detour to Cwmystradllyn to see the quarry is recommended.

Accommodation: Beddgelert B&B; food: Beddgelert; transport: buses run from Porthmadog to Beddgelert.

Walk 4

The walk from Aberglaslyn to Llan Ffestiniog goes via Rhosydd quarry which is reached by one of two equally interesting routes. The first route goes via Yr Arddu and then onto Cnicht by its north ridge. This gives excellent views of Cnicht - see picture left. From Cnicht follow the ridge along and then down to Rhosydd. The second route goes up Cwm Bychan past the remnants of the upper section of the Sygun copper mine. Rally Llyn Dinas and then turn south to Llyn Llagi. Climb to Llyn yr Adar with excellent views of Lliwedd and Snowdon behind. From here, a detour to Cnicht is little effort. Rhosydd is due south. From Rhosydd, walk towards the Moelwyns and then down to Tan y Grisiau reservoir, where we join the road to Llan Ffestiniog.

Accommodation: Llan Ffestiniog B&B; food: Llan Ffestiniog.

Walk 5

From Llan Ffestiniog, head down to the Cynfal river to view the Pulpit rock. Walk upstream to Bont Newydd then turn south to Tomen y Mur, the site of the old Roman fort. The route then heads to Trawsfynydd power station and around the western edge of Llyn Trawsfynydd, before joining the Rhinog ridge. A detour via Bryn Cader Faner is a must for lovers of ancient history and stone circles. Join the main ridge of the northern Rhinogs, which is followed to Clip. The geology on this stretch is a natural wonder. Backtracking 1/2 mile from Clip turn down Bwlch Gwylim and thence to the Roman Steps. It is a short walk from here either to Cwm Bychan or to the car park accessed from the A470.

Accommodation: Cwm Bychan campsite, YHA Llanbedr; food: Llanbedr.

Walk 6

Return up the Roman Steps, and then climb Rhinog Fawr. Come off on the eastern side of Rhinog Fawr, veering south to Bwlch Drws Ardudwy. From here climb up the other side onto Rhinog Fach. It is now an easy matter to follow the ridge into Barmouth, ticking off the rounded summits of Y Llethr and Diffwys on the way past. As you approach Barmouth, the Mawddach estuary comes into view offering spectacular sunsets; the views are excellent all-round: stretching north is the main ridge of the Rhinogs that we have just walked, and to the south lies the bulk of the Cadair ridge, where the next day's efforts await.

Accommodation: Barmouth, Penmaenpool, Llanbedr, Dolgellau; food: Barmouth, Penmaenpool, Llanbedr, Dolgellau; transport: rail link.

Walk 7

By any account, today's walk is a long march taking in the full length of the Cadair ridge, as well as Waun Oer so as to rally Bwlch yr Oerddrws. The ridge seems to me just as easily done this way as there is effectively little to explore. The views are consistently fine and will suffice any lover of the outdoors. Should you wish to break the day, a night's rest can be had in Dolgellau - this may be necessary in winter when days are shorter and the weather less clement.
The walk heads across the Mawddach estuary on the footbridge and then takes the ancient tracks past a number of standing stones to Llynau Gregennen - a lovely spot for the mid-morning break. From there join the main Cadair ridge by ascending to the west of Tyrrau Mawr. It is then a simple matter of following the ridge over Cadair Idris itself and then along to Bwlch Llyn Bach. Waun Oer is straight ahead and tired limbs will find difficulty in what is otherwise an easy climb. The walk ends at the car park at Bwlch yr Oerddrws.

Accommodation: YHA Kings, Dolgellau B&B; food: Dolgellau; transport: buses but own transport is best at this stage.

Walk 8

The walk over the Arans also follows fairly closely a ridge, although it is much less tiring than the previous day. A certain amount of exploring can be had on the upland bogs below Aran Fawddwy, looking for sundews for instance - and getting wet feet in the process. From Bwlch yr Oerddrws head up eastward following the fence line to Llyn y Fign and Glasgwm. The walk then simply links up Aran Fawddwy and Aran Benllyn to end at Llanuwchllyn. The views include the Rhobell hills to the north and to the south the hills around lake Vyrnwy. Make sure to spot the source of the Dovey at Creiglyn Dyfi.

Accommodation: Dolgellau, Bala; food: Dolgellau, Bala

Walk 9

Leave Llanuwchllyn heading for Waun y Griafolen. On the way, you will see the ruins of Carn Dochan above you, formerly a Welsh strong-hold. It overlooks Bala lake and used to regulate passage up and down the valley. Nearer the shores of the lake is the site of old Roman fort, attesting to this area's strategic importance in times past. Once on the edge of the Waun, two possible routes will take you towards Arenig Fawr. If the bog is frozen, its crossing is exhilirating, especially when you realise you are standing in the centre of a giant bowl, which collects the rain water that feeds the Mawddach, for this is its source. After the crossing, head north, on the north-western rim of this bowl. The other route follows the north-eastern rim. Both routes lead to the farm at Hendre Blaen Lliw. Keep heading north: the low road takes you between Moel Llyfnant and Arenig Fawr; the high road takes in the summit of Arenig fawr. End the day on the shores of Llyn Celyn.

Accommodation: Bala B&B and hostel; food: Bala. Transport: one's own is essential.

Walk 10

Today's walk follows the same watery theme started yesterday, but takes it up a notch, by crossing the Migneint diagonally. Start the walk by climbing Arenig Fach; from the summit, the vastness of the Migneint suddenly becomes apparent. The terrain is often broken and regularly sodden, but this is a beautiful desolation, only relieved by its single farm at Cefn Garw. Seldom has such a modest building been such a high-point on a walk. Also make sure to visit Llyn Serw which turns the most wonderful azure on cloudless days. Exit the bog in such a way as to continue on to Craig goch and the Manod quarries. From there, the tramline to Llyn Newydd offers some much needed respite; at the lake, turn north to Llyn Barlwyd to finish at the Crimea Pass.

Accommodation: Ffestiniog, Dolwyddelan; food: Dolwyddelan. Transport: train link from Dolwyddelan but one's own is easier.

Walk 11

From the Crimea pass, the walk to Moel Siabod starts with a minor horse-shoe, including the peaks of Moel Druman and Ysgafell Wen. From Moel Druman, it is possible to survey the entirety of the twelve days of the walk as the views are exceptional. South lies the vast gash of the Ffestiniog quarries still bleeding slate now, and beyond Cadair Idris and the Arans can be discerned; east lie Cnicht and Moel Hebog; north lie Snowdon, the Glyders and the Carneddau. Follow on to Llyn Edno, and then Cribau, before climbing to Moel Siabod. The descent can either follow the Daear Ddu ridge or the eastern (nameless) ridge. Both routes end at Pont Cyfyng.

Although it does not fit in the scheme of a twelve-day hike, there exists an alternative linear walk which links in with the first part of walk 4. This spliced route runs from Pont Cyfyng to Sygun copper mine, or even Pont Aberglaslyn.

Accommodation: YHA Capel Curig and YHA Swallow Falls; food: Capel Curig; transport: buses.

Walk 12

Ascend the Capel Curig pinnacles to Craig Wen and Creigiau Gleision. Contour Llyn Cowlyd by either end and ascend Pen Llithrig y Wrach, which offers good all-round views. Follow on to y Braich and Carnedd Llewelyn, which is part of the main ridge of the Carneddau. From here descend to Carnedd Dafydd and thence to Pen yr Ole Wen. There are two possible descents to Llyn Ogwen depending on energy levels: the first route is down the blunt south face of Pen yr Ole Wen; the second is down its easier east ridge to Ffynnon Lloer where the Afon Lloer can be joined to take you down to Llyn Ogwen.

Accommodation: YHA Idwal Cottage; food: Bethesda; transport: buses.